Summer surprises amid Prague renewal
Few cities do lazy summers better than Prague. But don’t just stick to the center to make the most of them. Inner suburbs such as Smichov, Karlin, and Vinohrady are reinventing themselves as seasonal hot spots, as are public spaces. And as venues frequently come, go or change, now is the time to visit.
“These places give you a totally different perspective of Prague and show how the city is changing,’’ said local IT consultant David Svejda. He regularly stops by Naplavka, Prague’s most prominent new seasonal venue, on the River Vltava.
Generally regarded as Rasinovo nabrezi waterfront between Jiraskuv bridge and the railway bridge at Vyton, Naplavka buzzes today. But for many decades, the robust granite embankments, below street level and themselves part of an early 20th-century renewal scheme, remained forgotten and underused. “Until recently, Naplavka was a deserted wasteland. The only visitors were people feeding the ducks,’’ said Svejda.
In 2010, one of the transformation pioneers, magazine editor Martin Kontra, founded Bajkazyl, a bike hire and repair shop and bar, in an embankment vault. “We were one of the catalysts for Naplavka as public space. People discovered the Vltava waterfront could be good for music and culture, and for the community,’’ he said. Soon, barges and steamers anchored permanently at Naplavka, throwing open their bars. More venues set up and continue to do so.
On balmy evenings, trendspotting Praguers mingle on the cobbled boardwalks. Regulars lounge on the embankment edges, relax with craft beers, or catch theater performances on board Lod’ Tajemstvi.
The river, steamboat convoy, and quayside add a welcome nautical atmosphere to a city 230 miles from the nearest coast. “It’s always relaxing by water,’’ said Svejda. “And the Vltava isn’t just any old river, but the Czech national river.’’
Rasinovo nabrezi also hosts everything from beer festivals to charity runs. On long June days, the scent of lime trees and fresh produce from the Naplavka farmers’ market, held most Saturdays, displaces the watery tang. Dutch writer Elke Parsa regularly makes the early-morning pilgrimage with her young son. “I’m really impressed by the quality and range of produce available,’’ she said.
This summer is the last chance to experience Naplavka in its current, slightly nonconformist state, as upgrade plans take shape. “In 2018, cafes and galleries will open in the embankment vaults. In 2019, ‘floating toilets’ will be introduced, as well as new boat terminals, a floating pool, and other improvements,’’ said Petr Janda, the architect in charge.
Vyton, the southern end of Naplavka, is the result of earlier renewal and is close to several inland attractions. Puro Gelato attracts long lines for Italian expat-approved ice cream; architecture buffs hot foot it to the unique Cubist buildings at Vysehrad. Back at the quayside, ferries connect with Cisarska louka peninsula and the opposite riverbank, Horejsi nabrezi.
The embankment, often called Smichovska Naplavka, lies in Smichov, once a thicket of chimneys. Today, few remain. Horejsi nabrezi now stages regular events, including food festivals. Locals watch the world go by at newly installed street furniture under the publicly funded Prazske zidle & stolky (Prague Tables and Chairs). Inspired by the NYC Plaza Program and similar schemes, the recent project is spreading citywide.
Downstream, Karlin, another made-over industrial suburb, suffered the worst during Prague’s devastating 2002 floods. Today, waves of regeneration sweep through. In June, Kasarna Karlin, a cinema, cafe, and public space, opened in the courtyard of a former barracks. Opposite them, renovation has just started on the historic Negrelli Viaduct, with cafes, shops, and galleries proposed for the railway arches.
Nearby, in upscale Vinohrady, the squares burst into life during holidays. At Jiriho z Podebrad, locals sun themselves by Prague’s quirkiest church, which resembles a giant bed. Cafes merge with Jirak farmers’ market, where besides locally sourced produce, popular eateries like Podolka serve meals to go. Customer experience manager Lenka Cernakova swings by regularly.
“There’s always a great atmosphere, the vendors are super-friendly, and I can always find treasures there,’’ she said.
For more active summer pursuits, try beach volleyball at Kayak Beach Bar on Rasinovo nabrezi. At nearby A(VOID) Floating Gallery, salsa fans twist and turn on the open deck under starry skies. Naplavka also stages sports events, and joggers pound the cobblestones while cyclists shudder along them. Many continue south to riverside Zlute lazne, a sports and relaxation complex and urban beach.
Everyone recommends Vinohrady’s Riegrovy beer garden, a shady and classic summer spot. “And you’ve got to see sunset over the castle from the slope nearby,’’ said Svejda. “It’s the way to round off a Prague visit.’’
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