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Belly Wine Bar pours with passion

Ryan Connelly (left) pours a cocktail at the busy and well-stocked Belly Wine Bar. Photos by Aram Boghosian for The Boston Globe

Anyone who has eaten at Cambridge restaurant the Blue Room has probably encountered the enthusiasm and knowledge of oenophile co-owner Liz Vilardi. That is now channeled at the adjacent Belly Wine Bar, a new project from the people behind the Blue Room and wine-cheese-and-more store Central Bottle. Never mind the usual dull divisions of geography and varietal. The by-the-glass list here features such categories as “Oysters, I love you,’’ “For you and your cru’’ (visiting each of the 10 Beaujolais regions), and “Sherry, sherry baby.’’ There is a section devoted to “orange’’ wines — whites that have been fermented with grape skins — and another to the offerings of producer and “wine crush’’ Alois Lageder. It is quirky and passionate and encourages exploratory tasting with 2-ounce and 5-ounce pours.

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Blue Room chef Robert Grant has created a complementary menu, devoted to the kind of food one wants to eat while sipping. There’s a selection of oysters, charcuterie, salumi, and cheese: rabbit rillettes and chicken liver mousse, jamon iberico and lamb mortadella, mild chevres and funky blues, and more. There are snacks from marrow bones to steak tartare to a crudo of the day. The truly hungry can share a dry-aged grilled rib eye for two. And the truly hungry who plan ahead can gather a party of four to 12 people, make a reservation at least 48 hours in advance, and indulge in one of Grant’s “Arm + A Leg’’ dinners, not for vegetarians. They are described as such: “For you, me and a big table of our friends with some meat, bones + other obligate carnivorous paraphernalia.’’ Recently, the multicourse meal has focused on the pig, with house-made cracklings; smoked ham and tomato panzanella; sausage with lentils; roast pork shoulder with corn, cabbage, and kohlrabi salad; and pie for dessert. Of course, wine pairings are available.

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Boston’s love affair with craft cocktails has been, and continues to be, a good time. But it is a pleasure to see a new establishment return the focus to wine, with a glee that is bound to be contagious. Devra First

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