6 New England restaurants that Boston chefs are excited to visit this spring
It’s almost here. The seemingly endless cold fronts are beginning to give way, and the smell of fresh spring produce is in the air. (Asparagus and ramps are almost at their peak, friends.)Spring is arguably the most exciting season for a restaurant, especially one on the tale end of a New England winter. Local vegetables are starting to defrost and bloom, and guests are likely feeling similarly—emerging from hibernation, ready to embrace and consume. We’re hungry, and we’re prepared to travel.There’s no shortage of fantastic restaurants in the New England region. And, lucky for Boston residents, they’re within driving (or ferry) distance. From Connecticut to Maine, all variations of restaurants are opening all the time. This satisfies our growing obsession with the food industry, but it can be difficult to keep up with what’s what and where to dine first. With that in mind, we asked six prominent Boston chefs which New England restaurant they’re most excited to visit this spring. Here’s what they said, via email.
Al Forno in Providence, Rhode Island
Al Forno.
2017 James Beard Award nominee Ken Oringer said he’s most looking forward to sitting down for a meal at Al Forno in Providence, Rhode Island. For Oringer, who’s chef and owner of Uni, and chef and partner of Coppa, Toro, and Little Donkey, Al Forno is not just any restaurant. “They’ve been around forever, and this spot is sentimental to me, as it was my first real cooking job out of culinary school,” he said. “I have a lot of great memories there.”
Chef-owners Johanne Killeen and George Germon opened the Italian-inspired fine dining restaurant in 1980. Today, it still holds a celebrated reputation, and it’s often cited as the birthplace of grilled pizza, a thin, crispy style of pizza with both sides cooked on a grill before the toppings are added. On any given night, you’d be hard-pressed to find a table that hasn’t requested one. “I would order the grilled corn pizza and strawberry rhubarb crostata—both bring me back to my early days as a cook at Al Forno,” Oringer said.
Primo in Rockland, Maine
Primo.
“Once the weather is nice, we love to drive up to Primo restaurant in Rockland, Maine,” said Karen Akunowicz, executive chef of Myers + Chang and another 2017 James Beard Award nominee. Our family has a house in mid-coast Maine, and making the drive up to Primo is a ritual for us. When it’s spring and their gardens are blooming, it’s really special.”
The coastal stretch of Maine where Primo is located is now scattered with great restaurants, many of them run by ex–New York City chefs in search of a more quiet and spacious yet culinarily innovative destination. However, chef-owner Melissa Kelly and partner Price Kushner helped pioneer the farm-to-table movement in the region when they opened Primo 17 seasons ago.
Primo’s menu transforms daily based on what’s harvested from the greenhouses and acres of produce and what’s sourced from other local farmers. “The menu is ever-changing, but I love the house-made charcuterie, wood-roasted whole fish, and perfect salads,” Akunowicz said. “They occasionally have a single piece of fried chicken as a special, which I love with a glass of champagne. We love to sit at the counter upstairs.”
The Pearl in Nantucket
The Pearl.
“I’m really looking forward to visiting The Pearl restaurant on Nantucket in May,” said Michael Scelfo, chef and owner of Alden & Harlow and Waypoint. “It’s always a frequent stop when we go down for Nantucket Food and Wine Festival and throughout the year to visit our friends [and The Pearl owners] Seth and Angela Raynor. My friends and I always rent a house and make a great weekend of it while I’m doing events.”
Husband and wife team Seth and Angela Raynor offer “current coastal cuisine” at the beloved spot. On any given summer night, you’ll find the Asian-inspired establishment packed with sophisticated guests, many of them likely ordering the salt and pepper wok-fried lobster.
“I always go for the black magic noodles if chef has them available,” Scelfo said. “It’s just one of my favorite bites on the island in Nantucket, and being there is always the ultimate kickoff to the summer season.”
Also noteworthy: The Pearl schedules a summer lineup of well-known Boston chefs who join the kitchen for one evening during the season, which is a testament to the food, the atmosphere, and the relationships the Raynors have developed with the region’s restaurant community.
Eventide in Portland, Maine
Eventide.
Sarma chef and owner Cassie Piuma said the restaurant she’s most looking forward to visiting this spring is Eventide in Portland, Maine. “We went on our first road trip to Portland after the birth of our daughter, Fiona, and we had such a great time bringing her to all our favorite spots,” the 2017 James Beard Award nominee said. “We had been before, but it felt like a new adventure with a baby. And even though she was just a tiny nugget, we introduced her to our favorite pastime — restaurant hopping! We’ve since had a second daughter, Talula. Might be pushing our luck traveling with two kids under two, but I’d love to recreate that memory!”
With a mix of raw bar options, a burger, a fried chicken sandwich, a clambake, and that famous lobster roll, Eventide is undoubtedly one of Portland’s hottest spots. “The crudos are super delicious and the brown butter lobster roll is literally life-changing, but I most look forward to the New England clambake. All the goodies — steamers, lobster, mussels are cooked in seaweed and served with potatoes, salt pork, and hard-boiled egg. New England comfort food at its best. Plus, I really like the guys who run the show. Very cool,” Piuma said.
What’s even cooler: Eventide will be opening a spot in Boston this year.
Millwrights in Simsbury, Connecticut
Millwrights.
Jamie Bissonnette can’t wait to head to Millwrights in Simsbury, Connecticut. What makes it so special for the James Beard Award-winning chef and partner of Coppa, Toro, and Little Donkey? “The view of the waterfall and the balance in [chef Tyler Anderson’s] food,” he said. “It’s such a great place. Their wine list is super interesting and pairs well with the food. As the seasons change, I know Tyler is going to have some dope new menu items.”
For food lovers throughout New England, Millwrights is a must-visit in Connecticut. Set in a 17th century mill, the kitchen, run by Anderson, serves “inspired New England cuisine” and puts a heavy focus on high-quality, farm-fresh ingredients, sourcing locally whenever possible. Bissonnette’s favorite thing on the menu: “The oysters with lambrusco mignonette and the foie gras. I hope the tarare is similar to what it was last year, with trumpet mushroom.”
Bissonnette also appreciates Millwrights’s classic basement bar. “It’s a spot for celebrations, special occasions, and an everyday glass of wine and a meal,” he said.
The Club Car in Nantucket
The Club Car.
“I cannot wait to try The Club Car this coming spring/summer,” said Tiffani Faison, chef and owner of Tiger Mama and Sweet Cheeks. Opening in May 2017, The Club Car will reinvent a classic Nantucket institution. Balancing the old and the new inside a modernized railway car and restaurant, its menu will be inspired by new California cuisine with a focus on local vegetables and seafood.
“[Executive chef and partner] Mayumi Hattori and [general manager and partner] Tanya McDonough, formerly of Straight Wharf, are both so completely talented and are true hospitality professionals. Tanya has her finger on the pulse of everything you want to imbibe, and Mayumi’s food is gorgeous, confident and stunning. Combinations like that are hard to find,” Faison said. “It takes special talent with an incredible vision to transform an icon into a new favorite. I have no doubt that they will do just that.”
What’s Faison most excited to order? “Everything! I can’t wait to see what they do!”
