Ask the Remodeler: Should you insulate your garage for a fridge?

A second one would be great for storing holiday leftovers and beverages, but can it handle extreme temperatures? Send your home improvement questions to [email protected].

A garage-ready fridge should be able to handle the extreme swings in temperature, from below freezing to hot, humid summer days. Adobe Stock

By Mark Philben, The Boston Globe

November 27, 2024

3 minutes to read

Q. We bought a 5-year-old house that is five-star rated for energy efficiency, including insulation, but the attached windowless garage, which sits in full sun, is not insulated. We bought a garage-ready fridge. Should we vent the space above it or add insulation around it in the roof and walls?

S.C.

A. There really isn’t a right or wrong way to go here. If you bought a garage-ready fridge, it should be able to handle the extreme swings in temperature, from below freezing to hot, humid days. These fridges should have better insulation so the compressor doesn’t burn out prematurely, especially in the hotter months. Regarding any venting, there may be ridge venting at the peak of the roof, which would allow for the passive release of heat in the summer. If not, ridge venting is a fairly easy install for a roofer. Allowing built-up heat to escape is worth the effort; it can add years to the life of your roof. Regarding insulation, that is not critical for a garage. Insulation will help your fridge somewhat, and it will also make your car a little warmer in the winter. If you store gas-powered lawn equipment in your garage, having it stay tempered from the extreme cold will help. It would be worth checking your garage door. If it is not an insulated foam core door, then insulating the walls and ceiling probably would not be worth the hassle.

Dear Mark

Regarding “Ask the Remodeler: Should you clean air ducts? Add gutter guards?” Nov. 13)

I’ve had gutter guards since 1987, and they are a godsend. No more wrestling with a 28-foot ladder to dig out cold, wet, sometimes frozen masses of wet leaves and crud. No pine trees nearby, just maples and oaks. We’ve had no problems of any kind. The guards are solid except at the end where they curl over. The guards are rugged and don’t clog. What’s not to like? I do have one low, unguarded gutter that cannot have a guard due to the design. A step ladder and 16-foot ladder handle the chore. For the first time, I heartily disagree with your advice.

F.A.L., Billerica

A. We love reader feedback. It is always great to hear people’s experiences with various fixes that worked or didn’t work. I had a feeling I would hear something back about gutter covers. I hedged a little bit, stating that some circumstances could warrant a gutter cover system. We have installed them on clients’ homes that had significant tree cover. We have another client who had a proprietary gutter system installed and is quite happy with it. So, there are exceptions, although we have found that they create more problems than they solve. Typically, problems result from systems installed improperly and with little regard to what kind of tree cover you are dealing with. Certain oak trees release those small, stringy pods that wreak havoc with certain gutter guard systems. We find this to be the case too often. One key point I tried to make is not to be lulled into a false sense of security and neglect having the system inspected along with other elements of your roof and gutter system. Winters can damage them, and leaf and seed debris can still get past them, perhaps not as much, but it can build up. As I so often say, hire a pro to make the right assessment and suggest the product and install technique.

Thanks for the feedback. Please keep it coming.

Mark Philben is the project development manager at Charlie Allen Renovations in Cambridge. Send your questions to [email protected]. Questions are subject to editing.