Four ways to top your oyster like a pro
Whether briny, sweet, or creamy, Loco’s Matt Drummond guides us through the terrain of dressing your oyster the right way.
[fragment number=0]
Oysters are the precious culinary gem of the Northeast. We treasure them as much as any other seafood, and slurp them in tremendous excess, in raw bars and restaurants and hovering over the kitchen sink.
South Boston’s Loco is one of these places. Opened in January 2015, the oyster and taco bar puts a spin on the raw oyster — not from how they shuck or serve the oysters themselves, but in the unique twists on the toppings that they dish out.
In honor of National Oyster Day, which is August 5, Loco’s executive chef Matt Drummond took us through a tour of toppings, providing stylish and classic alternatives to consuming these briny bivalves.
1. Mignonettes
[fragment number=1]
Mignonettes are versatile vinegar-based dressings that add a sharp flavor to an oyster.
“When you’re using a mignonette, you’re adding extra acid to the oyster itself,’’ says Drummond. “What you want to do with mignonettes is not make them too complex or overbearing because you don’t want to overpower the oyster. We try to make ours with very few ingredients so there’s not too much going on with our flavors.’’
Right now, Loco offers three mignonettes to pair with raw oysters: A roasted fresno pepper and black pepper, a mango and green habanero, and a mixed berry. But Drummond says that these toppings are pretty simple to make, even at home.
“If you’re just starting and want to keep it easy, I’d say a classic champagne mignonette is the way to go,’’ he says. “You take any champagne you prefer, and I personally use a little bit of vinegar and a little bit of fresh black pepper, and that’s it.’’
2. Flavored ice
[fragment number=2]
For a more unconventional spin on oyster toppings, some places, including Loco, are experimenting with ices.
“Ices also introduce a temperature difference,’’ says Drummond. “It does the same exact thing that a mignonette does, just without the vinegar.’’
Loco offers three different types of ices on their menu: A Thai basil, a pickled mango and habanero, and a pineapple black pepper. Drummond says that ices are a relatively new trend in last few years.
“The temperature difference actually plays on your palate,’’ he says. “The colder something is, the less you really taste it. It incorporates a very simple flavor to the oyster.’’
3. Cocktail sauce
[fragment number=3]
While it may be the classic raw oyster topping, Drummond doesn’t get too excited about the idea of incorporating cocktail sauce. That said, he still finds ways to put small twists on the tomato-based condiment.
“What we do, instead of using regular ketchup is we use a house-made ancho ketchup where we utilize ancho chilis,’’ says Drummond. “That’s our base, a deep rich spicy flavor, and we add Worcestershire sauce, horseradish and lemon juice.’’
And the simplest experiments can make all the difference, Drummond says.
“At home, I like to use freshly grated horseradish because you get more of a kick and more clean flavor,’’ he says. “That’s a very simple, easy substitution. You’ll notice a big difference between your typical jarred cocktail sauce.’’
4. Nothing at all
[fragment number=4]
Oyster traditionalists (and most New Englanders) will tell you that adding anything to an oyster on the halfshell is already a step too far. Drummond prefers his oysters naked, instead focusing his slurping efforts on trying out different varieties.
“Me personally, what I look for in oysters is what is new and I haven’t had before,’’ he says. “Second, what I look for is typically briny oysters. These are the ones you usually find in the Northeast, whereas the West Coast ones are a little more sweeter. I always like trying new and all different kinds.’’
Drummond pauses for a moment and then levels with us.
“Honestly, I like whichever oyster is going to make me want to drink more wine.’’
Oysters and raw bars in Boston:
[bdc-gallery id=”113893″]
To comment, please create a screen name in your profile
To comment, please verify your email address
Conversation
This discussion has ended. Please join elsewhere on Boston.com