Sicilian sweet-sour tastes in spaghetti, then strata

This sweet and sour sauce, similar to Sicilian caponata, and rooted in ancient traditions, makes use of plentiful summer produce. Simmer eggplant and tomatoes with pine nuts, raisins, and capers. Sugar and vinegar showcase the dish’s Moorish origins. Use a very wide skillet to concentrate the flavors. Then toss the rustic sauce with spaghetti, high-quality canned sardines, and a bracing squeeze of lemon.

On the second day, spaghetti replaces bread in the popular layered casserole strata, an old make-do dish. Build layers in a baking dish as you would a lasagna. Start with an ample foundation of the Sicilian sauce, then leftover pasta, ricotta, and more. Bake until bubbly. One pot of spaghetti and a savory sauce turn into two Old World favorites.

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(For pasta, strata)

3 eggs

¾ cup grated Parmesan

2 cups skim or whole-milk ricotta

2 large onions

5 stalks celery

5 large tomatoes

2 large eggplant

4 cloves garlic

1 bunch fresh parsley

1 bunch fresh oregano

2 lemons

Salt and pepper

½ cup olive oil

2 cans (3 to 4 ounces each) boneless sardines in olive oil

½ cup pine nuts

2 teaspoons crushed red pepper

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

Pinch of ground nutmeg

1 tablespoon tomato paste

½ cup raisins

¼ cup capers

¼ cup sugar

½ cup white wine

½ cup white wine vinegar

1½ pounds spaghetti

¾ cup dry white plain bread crumbs

1 can (15 ounces) crushed tomatoes

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