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Q&A: Valentine Howell Jr. on his second James Beard nomination
The renowned chef shares what this recognition means to him and what's next for his pop-up eatery, Black Cat.
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With the recent announcement of the James Beard Award nominations, Greater Boston’s restaurant scene has reason to be excited. Massachusetts landed 15 nominations across food and beverage categories, the most of any state in New England. And all of our region’s states were represented, just like last year.
There’s still a ways to go before we can celebrate wins — an announcement we can expect in the spring — but any nomination from the Oscars for restaurants is still pretty cool.
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A second nomination in just a handful of years? That’s a feat.
I’m talking specifically about Valentine Howell Jr. In 2023, he was a James Beard Award finalist for the Best Chef Northeast category when he was the executive chef at the Greek wine bar Krasi. But this year’s nomination is for Black Cat, his COVID-born pop-up currently housed in Jamaica Plain restaurant Vee Vee. Howell and his fiancée, Renea Adger, ran the pop-up out of their house during lockdown, before bringing it to reopened breweries.
Sadly, the Latin-Caribbean concept from Howell, which quickly became a favorite among local food media and JP residents, is coming to an end at Vee Vee on Feb. 8. But Howell told me it isn’t the end of this award-winning pop-up.
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I spoke with Howell about his nomination and what’s next for Black Cat (some reservations are still available!). The below interview was edited for clarity and brevity.
How does it feel to earn your second James Beard nomination?
Valentine Howell: The first time around [at Krasi], it was absolutely amazing. I was overwhelmed with happiness. Being that it was the first time it happened, I never thought anything like that would happen to me. But this time, it holds so much more weight because it is my thing. I started this from the ground up [during] COVID and quarantine. To see how it blossomed to where we are now, and the fact that I was once again nominated, it holds so much more weight this time around.
You’ve received a lot of local recognition, too, for Black Cat. How does it feel to get such warm reception from the community?
VH: It’s been fantastic, the fact that it was back-to-back-to-back with the Eater Awards, then Time Out, and then a write-up from Devra First in The Boston Globe. But we’ve had an overwhelming response since the James Beard nomination. Reservations have skyrocketed. Everybody in Jamaica Plain has been super welcoming ever since I came on board in May. The local love has been great.
Now I know this is just the first round of nominations, but I feel like Boston and Massachusetts were well-represented this year. What do you think that says about our dining scene right now?
VH: I’m super happy and impressed with the amount of Boston-based chefs that are on the list this year. I definitely think the Boston dining scene has been underrated. We have great restaurants and chefs in the Greater Boston area, and [these nominations go] to show that Boston is on the map, and Boston is a place to come dine and experience different types of cuisine.
Are there any shoutouts you’d like to give to folks in our restaurant scene who didn’t make the nominations list?
VH: Chef Peter [Nguyen] over at Le Madeleine in Quincy. I think he’s doing some amazing work. I haven’t been there yet, but I’ve been following him for a while, and I think he definitely deserves some recognition. Kendall DaCosta, he’s got a supper club called Out of Many One People. I know he doesn’t have a restaurant right now, but I definitely think he deserves some recognition for all the work he’s doing.
What did it mean to get to do this with your fiancee at Vee Vee?
VH: This was a culmination of years of talking about it. It wasn’t Black Cat to start. It was originally called PHAT Munchies. But the evolution has meant a lot to us. We’re both in the industry and met in the industry. From sitting on the couch talking about this to actually putting it into action during quarantine and seeing the overwhelming response we got, especially during a time as unsure as that. We weren’t 100% sure if people were going to show up to our house to eat food. But people came out and really supported us. Now, having a home, even though [Vee Vee] was temporary, it pushed us and our brand to new heights. We couldn’t be proud of everything we’ve been able to accomplish in the last four years.
What dish are you most proud of at Black Cat?
VH: They’re all my babies. But two dishes that have been getting an overwhelming response from people are the Red Snapper Rundown and the DjonDjon Fried Rice. It’s a power combo. When people come in, if they’re ordering the Rundown, they’re ordering the fried rice. They just go hand-in-hand.
I saw the news that you won’t be at Vee Vee anymore. What are your plans?
VH: Right now they’re still up in the air. We’re still looking for a home for Black Cat. Of course, it all comes down to money. It’s not cheap by any means to open a restaurant, but it’s been a dream of both of ours. Some people look at it like ‘Why would you want to do that to yourself?’ But it’s been a labor of love, and we know that we’re going to pour everything we have into it. This time here spent at Vee Vee has solidified that it’s going to work. It’s not a question of ‘if’ anymore. We still plan on putting on plated dinner pop-ups. We’re starting our own supper club because we don’t want to lose any momentum.
For your reading list
- 🍕 A new pizzeria is coming to Allston
- ⛷️ Where is the best après ski in New England?
- 🍷 Bookstores pairing books with booze
- 🦐 What’s next for Darryl’s Corner Bar & Kitchen (Eater Boston)
- 🍝 Four stars for La Padrona (Boston Globe)
For your calendar
- 😍 Do Valentine’s shopping at Satellite Bottle Shop
- 🍾 Drink bubbles + dance at First Street Market
- 🤤 Try Cunard Tavern’s new menu
What I’m eating this week: Southern staples
I’ve been sick and out of town, so I haven’t been out to any fun Boston restaurants in a couple of weeks. Last week I went on a homecoming trip to Savannah. I haven’t been home in nearly two years (thanks to outrageously priced plane tickets), but every time I do get back to my charming city, I do a couple of things: 1) I order an adult beverage in a to-go cup and walk around the squares and 2) I make a reservation to dine out at one of Savannah’s many spectacular restaurants.
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This time I patronized Brochu’s Family Tradition for Southern staples and got some of the best fried chicken I’ve ever had, biscuits, and gravy. If you find yourself in Savannah — and I hope you do — then go here (or email me for other recommendations).
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