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By Jillian Dara
The ever-rotating selection of local oysters and raw bar are certainly a key part of this intimate neighborhood hotspot tucked off Newbury Street on Gloucester, but there’s so much more to experience here.
Chef-owner Michael Serpa idealized Select Oyster Bar on the premise of “simply prepared fish that really showcased the quality of Boston’s seafood.” Of course, that includes a variety of preparations from oysters on the half shell to high quality crudo, and whole roasted catch of the day — so with many options to choose from, Serpa narrows down some favorites with his recommendations on what to order on your next visit to Select Oyster Bar.
To state the obvious: “You must have oysters at an oyster bar,” says Serpa. He explains that the story behind the name Select comes from a term used to describe and sort oysters. While building the restaurant, he realized the space for the raw bar was a tight corner to carry up to 12 types of oysters such as at previous restaurants he’d worked. “I found that sometimes there were only seven to eight [oysters] that were really good at any time… So I said: we can just do six types — the select ones available and that is when the name popped into my head.” Now, it works out perfectly for guests who come in as pairs and sit at the bar — they can order two of each for the perfect dozen.

When Serpa opened Select in 2015, he recognized that there was a gap in the market for crudo, especially in the vicinity of Back Bay. “Really high quality fish, creatively yet simply dressed,” is what he was going for and now the Faroe Island Salmon Crudo has become a signature item for its perfect balance with slices of rich fatty salmon, a healthy dose of lime juice, smoked sea salt, togarashi and pistachio oil. “Rich, salty, smokey, a little spice, and sweetness; everything you can hope for in a dish,” says Serpa. “Our regulars love it and many guests order one per person when they come in.”

This Spanish octopus from Galicia is slow cooked and seared in a black steel pan with blistered snap peas and scallions. It’s another longtime standout, advises Serpa. “The dish has great contrast with roasted tomatillos that are served chilled, the hot seared octopus and a slightly warmed salad of cilantro dressed with a tomatillo salsa verde.”

When Serpa and his team attempted to change the prep for this crispy skinned filet, “regulars were up in arms,” he recalls. The Arctic char is lightly cooked to medium rare and served with melted leeks cooked down with butter and white wine that “add a luxurious richness,” says Serpa. “The bright frisée and smoked bacon salad is dressed with a lemon-Dijon dressing and helps keep the dish in balance. A pistachio puree adds a little touch of nuttiness to round it out.”

Serpa conceptualized Select with this dish — thus it was the first-ever menu item. “We clean up a whole branzino, sear it, roast it and serve with very simply roasted fennel and fingerling potatoes.” There’s also a salsa verde of mint, oregano and parsley that goes on the fish with some lemon to make “the perfect dish.”
Jillian Dara is a contributor to Boston.com covering all things food and beverage.
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