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What to order at Brassica in Jamaica Plain
Chef-owner Jeremy Kean outlines a perfect meal at the Jamaica Plain eatery.
The concept for Brassica Kitchen + Cafe may have begun as a citywide experiment with chef Jeremy Kean and chef Philip Kruta’s traveling Whisk pop-up series in 2012, but today, Brassica’s French-American cuisine with a no-waste emphasis is very much at home in their Jamaica Plain brick-and-mortar.
What to order
“We’re treating the world in a way we’re proud of,” says Kean about Brassica’s evolution since moving into the JP neighborhood in 2016. “As we write menus now, we try to create these big circles that not only minimize food waste but also lowers food costs, creates jobs and protects the limited resources we’re all sharing.”
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Creatively, Kean adds that upcycling has permitted more culinary freedom—while some might consider the process as limiting, Kean says it helps the team focus while feeling proud of the efforts they’re making in the industry. “Restaurants tend to be pretty wasteful and we felt passionate about minimizing that waste as best we could.”
Below, Kean outlines a perfect order, including details about the upcycling process behind some of Brassica’s signature dishes that best embody their no-waste ethos.
Bluefin Crudo
Though there are plenty of unique flavors highlighted in this dish, the purity of the tuna still shines through. “We take Bluefin tuna, cure it with homemade soy sauce and a little bit of garlic then it gets sliced on a plate with buttered Dijon, cover it with bubu arare, rice crackers that we import from Japan, and miso powder,” explains Kean. The dish was inspired by Tim Maslow, the culinary artist behind the late Ribelle and Whaling in Oklahoma. When those restaurants shuttered, Kean paid homage to one of the most popular dishes Maslow had created by taking it up as a permanent addition on Brassica’s menu.
B.K. Brussels
During their traveling pop-ups in 2013, Kean’s team developed these crispy fried Brussels sprouts that became one of the first signature items on the brick-and-mortar menu. “I’ll put my kids through college with these Brussels sprouts,” Kean jokes. What makes them so addicting is their balance—a masterful mix of sweet, salty, acid and umami imparted by the maple syrup, umeboshi, fresh lemon juice and miso, respectively. Kean says the dish is an “awesome” pair with the pork chop (seasonal), or signature Koji risotto, but also, “they’re dynamic” and are just as divine as a stand-alone.
Koji Risotto
“The risotto embodies who we are and the research we’ve done,” says Kean, who adds that the research includes “creating a symbiotic kitchen; using products that create waste to create something else.” Kean grows Koji on the risotto, makes a broth from parmesan rind and once that broth is made, they take the boiled rinds to make a miso from it, using some of the risotto Koji. The broth is used to cook the risotto and the parmesan is used as a garnish. “It’s a perfect circle where nothing is wasted,” emphasizes Kean. The end result is “an earthy, sweet risotto that’s really special.”
Moules Frites
Kean prefaces this recommendation as one that’s only on the menu half the year—usually when it’s cold out. “Every time we take it off the menu, people throw a tantrum,” says Kean. That’s because Kean infuses this classical, French way of cooking mussels with Thai flavors for a red curry-style, aromatic broth that flawlessly soaks into the rotating starch it’s served with (sometimes the traditional fries, other times a homemade baguette or sticky rice).
B.K. Fried Chicken
When Brassica first opened with a focus on their tasting menu, Kean said they wanted to showcase standout items which conveyed to people “we weren’t taking things too seriously.” That’s exactly what this fried chicken did, as it remained as one of their most popular items. In symbiotic fashion, the bird is marinated for two to five days in a fermented pepper brine that’s an abundant byproduct from the making of their own hot sauce. “There’s white wine, garlic and tons of chiles,” assures Kean of the flavorful blend. The chicken is fried daily which ensures a delectable crisp.
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