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Row 34 Burlington’s taco pop-up is back. Will it stick around for good?
Row 34 owner and chef Jeremy Sewall said they're going to "see how this goes for a while" when it comes to keeping around Burlington's popular La Ventana.
Burlington’s popular taqueria pop-up is back, and with plans to stick around for good.
La Ventana, which has been serving tacos in Row 34’s Burlington location on and off since the early days of the pandemic, announced its return just in time for the Super Bowl — for takeout only, and just on the weekends.
“We heard from people ‘When are you going to do La Ventana again?’” recalled Jeremy Sewall, chef and owner of Row 34, which has four locations in New England. “We heard enough to where we (decided) let’s bring it back, and keep it, and see how this goes for a while.”
At the helm is Sewall and Row 34 Burlington’s chef, Isaac Reyes, who grew up in Mexico City and had made “absolutely amazing” tacos for restaurant staff from time to time, Sewall said.
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It started in late 2020, partially as a way to make money during a time when restaurants went dark — and as many other restaurants considered their own takeout-only pop-ups. But Sewall said it was also a much-needed piece of joy, and has remained that way since for the staff.
“Who doesn’t love tacos? Tacos are delicious,” Sewall said.
From that point on, La Ventana would open, then go away, then temporarily come back, then close up shop. Sometimes it would come back for a few weeks, or appear at events, each time drawing in positive reception from local regulars who made it their weekend takeout option and even some customers in surrounding towns of Greater Boston that make the drive for these tacos.
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Speaking of the food, the menu is small, featuring several tacos and some sides, like chorizo and scallion queso dip and rice and beans. They describe themselves as a “semi-authentic” taqueria inspired by Mexico City.
This taqueria may be in seafood-centered Row 34 and have seafood tacos on its menu — like the spicy grilled shrimp topped with cabbage slaw and pineapple salsa — but La Ventana is not focused on seafood. Other tacos on the menu include a carne asada with avocado, a Mexican chile salsa, and cilantro, or even a vegetarian tempura mushroom option with black bean salsa, spicy mayonnaise, and queso fresco.
But La Ventana’s extended stay isn’t for certain, and Sewall has no plans to expand the taco spot to a brick-and-mortar space at this point. The team has considered offering La Ventana, currently open Fridays through Sundays, on Thursdays, or maybe even bringing the pop-up to their other Row 34 locations.
“If we get so busy or challenged from a staff or operations standpoint where that has to go be put away, our main focus is Row 34 and making sure that restaurant is always great,” Sewall said. “If we have the bandwidth to keep going with La Ventana, we’re going to keep going with it.”
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Sewall’s recommendations: The carnitas taco, beer braised with a black bean-jalapeno sauce, queso fresco, and cilantro, is his favorite. He also suggests an order of the guacamole, made by Reyes, with chips. To get one (or two) of every taco on the menu, Sewall’s tip is to bring friends.
La Ventana; 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., Friday-Sunday; 300 District Ave., Burlington; Takeout or delivery orders can be made online or through DoorDash.
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