Restaurants

Neighbors clash over Cambridge restaurant’s smoke

Bruno Cruciani cooked over a grill in the kitchen of Shepard in Cambridge. JOHN BLANDING/GLOBE STAFF

In just two years, Shepard Restaurant & Bar in Cambridge has won a devoted following and accolades among culinary connoisseurs for dishes such as savoy cabbage and roasted chicken that are smoked, seared, or charred in its signature wood-fired oven and on an open-flame grill.

But all that wood smoke is an unwelcome taste to Anne Watkins, a neighbor who says it can be overbearing.

“If we’re outside, it produces coughing and my throat is sore,” said Watkins, who lives across from Shepard and said the smoke is unhealthy for her 10-year-old daughter, who was born with respiratory problems. “On a nice spring day we had these lounge chairs and our daughter would be on the deck in the evening — that’s all gone.”

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