Martha’s Vineyard by bus: Menemsha
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Third of four parts. Read Part 1 and Part 2.
Somehow – OK, I was texting – I missed the No. 6 bus, which would bring me from Edgartown to West Tisbury, where I would have to transfer to the No. 4 in order to arrive in Menemsha, at the opposite, west end of Martha’s Vineyard. I only realized this when I noticed the bus, which had been directly in front of me, make its way down Church Street. My attempt to catch the bus before it turned resulted in a wave of the driver’s hand, which meant I was stuck in downtown Edgartown for another hour, or forced to make my way back to West Tisbury, where I could catch a connection to Menemsha, our delayed lunch destination which was now causing a growl in my stomach. Forced to choose the latter, I arrived about an hour later than anticipated, my first disruption of the day riding the Martha’s Vineyard Transit Authority.
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Menemsha is a seafood lover’s dream, with fresh fish, lobsters, and other shellfish served up as fresh as can possibly be. From the boats at the docks, directly into one of the few establishments that serve permanent residence there, this is one of the best ways to grab lunch on the island, if not in all of New England. On this day, dozens of diners lined the likes of Menemsha and Larsen Fish Markets, where they purchased lobsters and retreated to the docks to enjoy them in a no-frills atmosphere that defines the experience.
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The menu at Larsen’s Fish Market (56 Basin Road, Chillmark, 508-645-2680, www.larsensfishmarket.com).
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I decided on a lobster roll, which, at $11.99, wasn’t exactly cheap, or large, for that matter, but it was easily the best I’ve ever had, bursting with lobster flavor with just a hint of mayonnaise.
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The small size of the lobster roll meant more room for seconds, and since I’ve always wanted to try The Bite (29 Basin Road, Menemsha, 508-645-9239, (thebitemenemsha.com), a small clam shack just a few steps away, where it’s cash only and no cell phones. There are rules, you know.
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The quahog chowder at The Bite, a delicious mix of cream and clams ($4.95 for a cup).
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A look at the docks at Menemsha Pond, where there is also a bike ferry that will bring passengers across to West Basin Road.
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Lobster traps are omnipresent on the Menemsha docks.
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One of Menemsha’s most popular, shelled residents.
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Menemsha Beach is noted for its spectacular sunsets, when visitors will bring a bottle of wine, stop for some lobster, and enjoy a quintessential dinner on the beach during summer evenings.
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Lost and found at the beach.
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The defining statue in Menemsha is a tribute to the area’s history of harpoon fishery.
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A docked boat in Menemsha.
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An hour after arrival, I await the 3:01 p.m. bus to Oak Bluffs, a destination which I am forced to transfer for at the West Tisbury Town Hall. The light crowds that I enjoyed in the morning hours have filled in quite considerably, and I found myself waiting for my next ride with about a dozen or so others.
(Check back Thursday for Part 4 of this week’s series.)
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