Boothbay Harbor, Maine, makes for a great fall getaway
In summer, the Boothbay Harbor region is jam-packed with rusticators and tourists, many who return year after year to enjoy one of Maine’s oldest summer playgrounds. After Labor Day, the crowds all but disappear. The still-warm golden days of fall are an ideal time to mosey through the maze of islands, islets, towns, and villages tipping the peninsula framed by the Sheepscot and Damariscotta rivers.
STAY
The bright and airy Topside Inn (60 McKown St., 888-633-5404, www.topside inn.com, $155-$275) caps a downtown hill with spectacular views over the inner and outer harbors. The solid 19th-century sea captain’s home and two motel-style annexes are decorated with contemporary flair. Watch traffic in the inner harbor from the waterfront decks of the Blue Heron Inn (65 Townsend Ave., 866-216-2300, www.blueheronseasideinn.com, $195-$275), which is decorated with antiques and collectibles from the owners’ travels. Guests at the early 19th-century Hodgdon Island Inn (374 Barters Island Road, Boothbay, 800-314-5160, boothbay bb.com, $139-$225) enjoy nine recently updated and comfortable guest rooms as well as evening refreshments. The quiet, waterside location is convenient to the botanical garden and hiking trails. The Lewis family has operated the vintage Mid-Town Motel (96 McKown St., 207-633-2751, www.midtownmaine.com, $69-$95) since 1955, providing spotless, no-frills downtown lodging for budget-minded travelers. For a full-blown resort experience, stay at the Spruce Point Inn (88 Grandview Ave., 800-553-0289, www .sprucepointinn.com, $170-$370), with rooms spread out among the main inn, cottages, a contemporary lodge, and modern townhouses. Facilities include a full-service spa, recreation hall, fitness room, two restaurants, two pools, tennis courts, kayaks, and bicycles.
DINE
Need a sweet treat to start your morning? Head to Baker’s Way (90 Townsend Ave., 207-633-1119) for fresh doughnuts and excellent sticky buns, and then return later in the day for Vietnamese fare ($8-$11). Enjoy either in the backyard garden. If you’re craving a crustacean, the lobster rolls from the Trevett Country Store (Barters Island Road, Boothbay, 207-633-1140) are considered among the state’s best. “Free Beer Tomorrow’’ proclaims the sign in front of Bet’s Fish Fry (Route 27, on the Boothbay Common), a seasonal takeout shack renowned for generous servings of ultra-fresh fried haddock. If you find yourself in the mood for something a little more uptown, pair elevated harbor views with well-prepared tapas at the Boathouse Bistro (12 The By-Way, 207-633-0400, www.theboathouse bistro.com, $3-$15). And Sante Calandri prepares rave-worthy classic Northern Italian fare at Ports of Italy (47 Commercial St., 207-633-1011, www.portsofitaly .com), with most choices in the $20s.
DURING THE DAY
Galleries, boutiques, specialty shops, and novelty stores crowd downtown Boothbay Harbor. Gleason Fine Art (31 Townsend Ave., 207-633-6849) specializes in Maine art from the 19th into the 21st century. Taste dozens of olive oils and balsamic vinegars among other gourmet fare at Eventide Epicurean Specialties (5 Boothbay House Hill, 207-350-4244). Wander through 10 rooms jam-packed with jewelry, art, antiques, and eclectic finds at the Palabra Shop (53 Commercial St., 207-633-4225). Take time to smell the flowers under the still warm, golden fall sun at the 250-acre, shorefront Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens (Barters Island Road, Boothbay, 207-633-4333, www.mainegardens.org, $12 adults). Must-sees include the five-senses and children’s gardens. Stretch your legs by hiking Ovens Mouth East (Sawyers Island Road, Boothbay) or Linekin (Route 96, East Boothbay), two of the many preserves managed by the Boothbay Harbor Land Trust (207-633-4818, www.bbrlt.org). No visit is complete without boarding a boat, and two fleet operators offer plentiful options. Cap’n Fish’s Cruises (office on Pier 1, 800-636-3244, www.boothbayboattrips .com, $19-$30 adults) offers nine varied, mostly two- to three-hour cruises organized around such things as seal watching, lobster-trap hauling, and lighthouses. Balmy Days Cruises (42 Commercial St., 800-298-2284, www.balmydayscruis es.com) operates three vessels on a variety of excursions, including one-hour harbor tours and 90-minute sails. Alternatively, join a half-day sea-kayaking tour with Tidal Transit Kayak (18 Granary Way, 207-633-7140, www.kayakboothbay .com, $45-$50). Tidal Transit also rents bicycles, an ideal way to loop around bridge-linked Southport Island or out to East Boothbay and Ocean Point. Railway buffs should not miss a stop at Boothbay Railway Village (586 Wiscasset Road, Boothbay, 207-633-4727, www.railwayvil lage.org, $9), where a restored narrow-gauge steam train makes a 1.5-mile circuit through a themed village with exhibits, including antique cars and trucks.
AFTER DARK
The renovated 1894 Opera House (207-633-5159, boothbayoperahouse .com) hosts concerts, lectures, dramas, and special events. Under Currach Tavern (93 Townsend Ave., 207-633-6344) offers Irish and other live acoustic music. Best bets for more rollicking live shows include the Mine Oyster (16 Wharf St., 207-633-6616, www.mineoyster.net), with a raw bar, and the ever-popular McSea-gulls (14 Wharf St., 207-633-5900, mcsea gullsonline.com/enter/).
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