The Car Doc talks leaky struts, oil consumption and more

John Paul, aka “the Car Doctor,’’ answers readers’ car-related questions.

By John Paul @johnfpaul

May 31, 2016

3 minutes to read

Q. I have a 2010 Toyota Avalon with about 66,000 miles on it. Recently I had the oil changed and was told the right rear strut was leaking. The mechanic said he has seen this often in Toyotas and didn’t know why a recall wasn’t issued. Have you heard about this from other Toyota owners or is this a common problem?

A. Leaking strut and shocks happen due to a number of reasons. Generally a strut or shock will start to leak fluid as they age. This is usually due to internal seals failing, which can be a result of our less than perfect roads. The issue is how much of a leak is considered normal. Most vehicle manufacturers agree that slight oil collecting on the strut or shock absorber is considered normal and to be expected with age. More importantly is how the component performs and a simple “bounce’’ test is still a good indicator of wear. If the car still bounces after pushing down on the corner of the car a few times then the shocks or struts are in need of replacement.

Q. I own a 2010 Toyota Camry and it is using one quart of oil every 1,000 miles. A friend of mine has a 2001 Camry and it uses no oil between oil changes. Did I get a lemon?

A. Some Toyota engines have had a problem with oil consumption. The repair is not simple since it requires replacing the pistons. At this point I the economical thing to do is just add oil when necessary. .

Q. I have a Chevy Tahoe and after I replaced the battery recently and now the air conditioner doesn’t switch from the center of the dash vent to the defroster. Is it possible that changing the battery caused this problem? It seemed fine all spring/winter.

A. Changing the battery shouldn’t have had any effect on the air flow controls. That said, it is certainly worth trying to recalibrate the system first before replacing any parts. Try this: With key on and the engine off press the Auto button on climate control then shut off ignition immediately. Remove both battery cables and leave off for about 45 minutes, then replace the positive battery cable and then the negative cable. If that doesn’t fix the problem then it is most likely a faulty door actuator.

Q. I have a car with alloy wheels and they are dirty. I have cleaned them and they look okay but lack the new car sparkle they once had. Is there anything I can try to make them look better?

A. I have a cone shaped buffer wheel that fits into a cordless drill. The design allows you to get into the nooks of the wheel. It is called the Buffer Bit. It comes with three wool buffing pads and a handy storage tube. Judging from its design you can probably polish chrome motorcycle pipes, wire wheels and according to their website cowboy boots.

Q. I have a 2005 PT Cruiser convertible and the windows rattle (driver’s side). I brought the car back to the local repair shop and they told me there wasn’t anything they could do. They told me that it was due to the car being eight years old and having some wear and tear. What do you think?

A. Although there may be some truth to this, it may be a case of being a little lazy. You can certainly adjust the glass. Most likely it is the rear window powering up past its stop causing the door glass and rear quarter glass to hit together.

Q. How tight should I tighten an oil filter when I doing my own oil changes? I always get confused, some people say hand tight, other count revolutions once the gasket contacts and still others tell me to just make it tight. What do you do and we?

A. Oil filters should be hand tightened-no wrenches. For any compressible seal to function properly, the amount of compression on it is very important. This is even more important when the gasket sits in the oil filter. Just going by “feel’’ is too variable to be reliable. Too loose and it can leak and “blow out’’ or, too tight and the seal can be damaged. Either way your car’s engine can suffer catastrophic damage if the seal fails. Here is what I do: Follow the manufacturer’s directions on the box, clean the mating surface on the engine. Put clean oil on the rubber seal and the mating surface. Spin the filter on until the rubber seal just touches the mating surface. Now, tighten it per the manufacturer’s directions – usually an additional 3/4 to 1 turn. This ensures the proper compression on the seal and gives a reliable seal every time. This is what has worked for me, readers and technicians what do you do?