To change or not to change a car’s transmission fluid?
Q. I own a 2012 Buick LaCrosse with a V-6 engine and all-wheel-drive. During a recent standard maintenance visit at the local dealership I was told that my car was overdue for the 30,000 mile transmission fluid and filter change. I rechecked my owner’s manual and found on the 30,000 mile page that I only needed to “inspect’’ the fluid. It said nothing of changing it on the owner’s website either. I hope you can clear up the confusion on which is the correct action (to change or not to change).
A. Certainly changing the transmission fluid can’t hurt, but unless the fluid shows characteristics of overheating, it isn’t necessary. Even if you use the severe service schedule provided by Buick, the transmission fluid is not scheduled for a change until 90,000 miles. I believe this is strictly a recommendation by the servicing dealer and not one of General Motors/Buick.
Q. I have a 2013 Mazda CX-5 and it has about 45,000 on its original tires. The all-season tires were okay until this last snow storm and I slipped and slid everywhere. Should I consider a snow tire or will all season tires be okay?
A. There is nothing better than a winter tire even on an all-wheel-drive vehicle. Only you can decide if the improved traction is worth the extra expense and hassle of switching tires seasonally. For most drivers a quality all-season tire will be fine, but keep in mind an all-season tire is always a bit of a compromise. Even the best all-season tire will not be able to perform as well as a dedicated winter tire.
Q. I have a Chevrolet pick-up and the automatic transmission has started to make a loud noise. This happened after being stuck in the snow. I had it checked at a local garage and was told the entire transmission needs replacing. When I asked about using a part from a junk-yard, they told me the part wouldn’t last and suggested only a new or factory rebuilt transmission. What do you think?
A. I generally have no problem with used parts, but with a transmission it can get tricky. Unlike buying a fender or starter it is harder to check that the transmission is in good condition. Most good salvage yards will check out and guarantee the parts they sell and will replace the part if it fails. The concern is who pays for the labor if the part fails? Before I would use a salvage transmission I would get the warranty in writing just so there is no question if the part fails and who has to pay.
Q. We have a 1996 Ford 4X4 pickup. We have put in a new positive battery cable, a new alternator and a new battery. If the headlights or heater are on, the truck will start sputtering. The other issue is sometimes it acts just like the battery is weak. What could be wrong?
A. The output voltage of the alternator should be checked to see exactly what is happening. I would also check for voltage drop on both the new positive and the old negative cable. I have seen many Ford trucks that the negative cable grounds at the frame, but fails between the frame and engine block causing all sorts of starting and charging system problems.
Q. I have a 12 year old Chevrolet S-10 pickup with about 312,000 miles. The entire truck is starting to rust out, frame included. I use the truck as a second vehicle, to pull a utility trailer and go to the dump. What can be done to delay the rust problem or is it time to replace this otherwise dependable vehicle?
A. It really depends on the extent of the rust. If the entire frame is becoming structurally compromised, there is little you can do. If there are one or two rusted areas, perhaps it can be welded. If it is just getting rusty, clean up the rust and applying an undercoating or rust inhibitor may slow down the rust. If there is any question that the rusting frame is causing a structural issue that could compromise your safety, it is time to get rid of your truck.
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