Taking an older car on a road trip to Texas
Q. I’ve been driving a 2005 Ford Focus wagon with 148,000 miles on it with no major problems except for regular oil changes and replacing the struts. I want to drive the car to Texas and do a big loop around the USA this summer, but my kids are having fits about me doing this in a car that will probably have close to 154,000 miles on it by that time. My regular mechanic sees no problem with my plan. What say you?
A. Driving an 11 year old car around the country can present challenges but people do it all the time. Certainly driving long distances can put more stress on any car. Prior to the trip your repair shop needs to fully check over the car and replace any questionable items that could fail on the trip. These items would include; drive belts, hoses, thermostat, possible the battery, radiator and tires. During your trip it is important to perform routine checks of the tires and all the vital fluids. Send me a post card from Texas.
Q. In one of your columns you mentioned the 2000 Toyota Camry with over 200,000 miles on it. My wife has 1999 Camry which is approaching 200K, 000, I have suggested many times that she update it, but in her wisdom, she declines. Meanwhile, I have been through at least three other vehicles, since she bought it! At any rate, I thought you may be interested in a recent discovery we made about the electrical system in her car. Over the years, we had trouble with seemingly good batteries dying, when she would leave the car unused for a couple of weeks at a time. We finally discovered that the security system was slowly draining the battery. Last spring we paid a considerable amount to have it removed from the vehicle. Toyota claimed it was an “aftermarket’’ product, although we bought it with the Camry when it was new in 1999. Can you shed any light on the alarm issue?
A. I’m glad you solved the electrical problem with your “aftermarket’’ alarm system. Although you purchased your car new, the alarm system was likely a “dealer’’ installed option and not put in at the factory. This alarm would have been warrantied by the dealer for the normal new car warranty period.
Q. I have a 2008 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. The radio with the navigation seems to have a mind of its own. It will turn off intermittently, then not turn back on or the volume or station changers won’t work. Is it gremlins?
A. Electrical gremlins, yes. I would first look to make sure there are no poor electrical connections that could be causing the problem. The next step would be to make sure that all firmware updates have been performed with this system. A quick check of AllData the technical database that I use shows several software updates for this radio.
Q. I had front and rear brake pads including new brake rotors replaced at 90,000 miles (not by VW) two months ago. The brakes squeak a lot backing up or going forward. Claim they fixed front ones two weeks ago –they still squeak. First time they have ever squeaked in 13 years. Is this normal and am I doomed to a life of noise when braking?
A. Brake pads tend to squeak when they vibrate against the brake rotor. In most cases this brake noise can be solves with new brake hardware or an application of an anti-squeal compound. This polymer adhesive is applied to the back of the brake pads to provide a vibration absorbing cushion against the caliper pistons. In very rare cases some brake noise can only be solved by using the factory brake pads.
Q. I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan that I use for a work truck doing odd jobs and it only has 74,000 miles on it. The engine light comes on occasionally. The computer codes directed the repair shop to replace the gas cap. I put a new gas cap on, but the light remains on. The local shop can’t seem to fix the problem. Do you have any ideas on how to fix the problem? The second issue is that from time to time I carry a little too much weight in the van, would new shocks help?
A. Based on your description, the service engine light is coming on due to a problem with the evaporative emissions system. At this point I would find a shop that has a “smoke machine’’. This tool fills the evaporative emissions system with synthetic smoke, allowing the technician to find even the smallest leaks by simply looking for the smoke escaping. Replacing the standard shocks with new shocks won’t help. The best thing to do is replace the rear springs although this can get pricy. A cheaper alternative is a coil-over shock absorber. These types of shocks can help keep the van level when loaded by, in some cases increasing the load capacity in some cases by 1200 pounds.
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