My Car Takes a While to Warm Up
Q. I recently bought a lightly used 2011 Toyota RAV4. In my first winter with it, I found that, when the temperature is close to 0 degree F or below, the transmission had issues. I would step on the accelerator, and though the engine revved higher, it would not accelerate as I thought it should. After a minute or two of warmup, it would run normal. Is this a factory defect?
A. If the transmission is staying in a lower gear longer when it’s cold, it is just a normal characteristic of the vehicle. Staying in a lower gear helps with quicker warmups and lower vehicle emissions. If in fact the car is not going into gear and the engine speed is “flaring’’ then there is a problem. If there are no trouble codes set for the transmission I would consider changing the fluid. Toyota like many vehicle manufactures requires their own type of fluid. Using other than Toyota fluid will cause shifting issues.
Q. This is not a tech question, but a request. Although I am now retired, I did a lot of driving in my career and I was shocked to note that a lot of car owners with “constant-on’’ headlights are unaware that they are only about 40 percent of the brightness of regular headlights, and worse, a lot of those cars don’t automatically turn on their taillights. Please mention this to your readers, many drivers drive in rain or snow thinking that they can be seen without actually turning on their headlights and that isn’t always the case.
A. You make a very good point, I too have seen driver with the daytime running/headlights on driving at night. Drivers need to remember to look down at the dash lights at night, if the dash lights are off then the running lights are also off. In addition to being dangerous and making the vehicle less visible, the driver could get a ticket.
Q. I own a 2012 CRV that I love except for one issue. Occasionally, when I take my foot off the gas to slow down, then step on the gas again, nothing happens. The car does not accelerate for a couple of seconds, then when it does accelerate it jumps ahead because I’ve pushed too hard on the accelerator. I’ve had it to two mechanics, one being a Honda dealership, but they are not able to reproduce the problem and therefore cannot diagnose it. Any ideas from you would be greatly appreciated.
A. It is always difficult to diagnose and repair vehicle where the problem doesn’t happen on a regular basis. I have checked for updates and technical service bulletins on the database I use AllData and didn’t find any that would specifically apply. There are several possibilities but at best I would be just guessing. I hate to say it, but if there is no check engine light that comes on and all the computer data looks correct, time may be the best diagnostic tool. Perhaps keep a log of when and where the hesitation happens and at what speed and temperature. These will be clues necessary to help the shop get the car repaired.
Q. I am considering a seven passenger SUV; I’m looking for something dependable and not overly expensive ($50,000 or so). I’m looking at the Acura MDX, I like the size, style and the electronic technology that comes with the MDX. Recently one of my friends told me I should look at the Hyundai Sante Fe, are these cars really any good?
A. The Sante Fe is definitely worth a look. I recently drive the 2015 Sante Fe (not the smaller Sante Fe Sport) and came away very impressed. The ride was controlled and quiet, the V-6 engine developed 290 horsepower (matches the MDX) and it had all the technology that at least I could want (heated and cooled seats, heated wheel, panoramic sunroof, HID lamps to name a few) During my time with the Sante Fe I averaged a respectable 21 miles per gallon. There once was a time when people purchased Hyundai due to the value, long warranty and too some extent forgave the less than stellar quality. Today Hyundai offers value, quality and good overall vehicle performance.
Q. Recently while driving about 20 mph in the 4wd/high mode w/ the right side on snow and the left on pavement, the left side tires locked and the car spun violently to the left and the green “locked’’ light displayed on the dash by the drive mode indicator. (Fortunately there was no oncoming traffic!) My car has the drive mode switch on the dashboard. I have been afraid to use the 4wd/high since and just use the “auto’’ which switches from 2 to 4 as needed. Do you know what caused this potentially dangerous condition?
A. Depending on the type of vehicle and driving conditions this type of thing can happen with little warning. When a vehicle is locked in four-wheel-drive and the center differential is locked and the friction conditions are different from the left to right side of the vehicle it can push the vehicle to one side. As a general rule a vehicle with part-time or switchable four wheel drive provides better traction because the wheel are locked together Vehicles with part-time 4WD systems should not be driven on dry or mixed road conditions at higher speeds due to handling and excessive wear to the drivetrain components. Even cars with automatic all-wheel-drive systems that have a differential lock should not be driven in this mode at road speed and is best used only when conditions warrant it, such as deep snow.
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