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Q. From a consumer standpoint, has anything fundamentally changed in buying a new car since 2019? Are we at more of a disadvantage now due to supply and demand, general availability, supply chain issues, etc.? How would you describe the current landscape? How much negotiating power does a buyer have nowadays? I am considering the 2025 Toyota Camry.
A. Inventories are better, but popular vehicles are still selling above MSRP. Just driving by dealerships, I am seeing more and more inventory sitting on lots. Although inventories look better and there are seemingly better incentives, prices seem about the same. Recently I read that new car dealers have about an 80-day supply of cars. With cars sitting for months, dealers should be more likely to make a deal. Also, if you have good credit, you can find some very attractive finance rates. The 2025 Toyota Camry – which now only comes as a hybrid – is a very good choice, excellent fuel economy and historically very good reliability.
Q. My 2010 Honda CR-V has a vibration and a helicopter sound in drive. I took it to the Honda dealer and got the starter motor, engine belt, and belt tensioner replaced and fuel injection serviced. The problem is still there. I took it back and was told I needed motor mounts. I had that work done and the problem is still there. Any thoughts?
A. The best thing to do is take a mechanic for a ride to demonstrate the noise so you both are on the same page. Then there is no issue if they replace parts, and the car is not repaired. It is their mistake, and you should not be charged for that. Once the car is repaired I would even go so far as to go for a ride with the mechanic to ensure the car is repaired, before I paid the bill. I remember one person who had a vibration and similar helicopter sound with an SUV. The dealership tried a few things and the car was not repaired, according to the owner. The owner was looking to return it under the lemon law. I went for a ride with the owner, and they opened the rear windows (they had a dog) and the car made noise. Unfortunately, in some cars with only the rear windows open the car will flutter and vibrate. A representative should have gone for a ride with the owner and verified the issue. I called it a normal characteristic, maybe not desirable, but normal and not a defect.
Q. My granddaughter drives to work and asked for a portable tire inflator for her birthday. She suggested: the AstroAI Tire inflator Portable Air Compressor. I don’t know how/why she chose this one. I see that you have to start your car, connect the hose to the tire and plug in a cord to the cigarette lighter. I am worried about a strain on the battery, although the car is running. A friend suggested the Airmoto Tire Inflator. It got high ratings and looks simple and too good to be true. Your thoughts on either of the above or can you suggest one?
A. The Airmoto looks fine and like many things sold online looks like it is marketed under different names. I will say I am always suspicious of reviews. I tend to believe the one- and two-star reviews more than the glowing reviews. The one concern is that you need to make sure it stays charged. If you put it in the car and nine months later you need it and the battery is dead, then it doesn’t do much good. The other one is good, but you need to be a little careful that the cigarette style plug in the car can handle the electrical load. This was never the case when cars had lighters, but today that socket is more to charge a phone or power a GPS. My favorite compressor is a rechargeable unit by WORX. It uses the same battery as some of my lawn tools, so I usually have a battery charged. For plug in compressors, I have a Slime products air pump. It has a simple gauge and long cord and plugs into the cigarette outlet; it is simple, inexpensive, does the job, and like my jump pack, reflectors, and flares, hopefully I never need them.
Q. I live in Massachusetts and years back had a Margaritaville license plate frame on my car. When I got it inspected the shop took it off and said because it covered the state name it was illegal. I know it was wrong and felt a bit like a criminal, but usually a few days later I would put it back on. I just had my car inspected and the shop did a good job checking everything, seat belts, gas cap, all the lights and computer, and never mentioned the license plate frame (which I forgot to take off). Did something change?
A. Yes, last year the rules changed. You now can have a plate frame as long as it does not cover the numbers. You can also have a cover over the plate as long as it does not affect the visibility of the plate. You are no longer a criminal.
Q. I had the catalytic converter replaced on my 2012 Chevy Cruze to be rid of the check-engine light. The shop did not clear the light. They told me that the car is repaired and the light should go out on its own. After driving it back and forth to my two jobs for the last two weeks the light is still on. Do you think I need to drive it continuously without stopping for at least a couple of hours to get the light to go out? Do you think the better-quality catalytic converter would make the light go off?
A. Aftermarket catalytic converters can be a challenge. I have seen some that work perfectly, and others are just not up to the task. The catalytic converter emissions monitor does require specific conditions before it will set or clear. This could include highway driving for 15-20 minutes. In addition, if there are other codes those issues may need to be repaired before the catalytic converter monitor will set. At this point I would return to the installer and have them scan the car’s computer for fault codes to see what is really going on.
John Paul is AAA Northeast’s Car Doctor. He has over 40 years of experience in the automotive business and is an ASE-certified master technician. E-mail your Car Doctor question to [email protected]. Listen to the Car Doctor podcast at johnfpaul.podbean.com.
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