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Is a dead rodent to blame for an odor coming from the dashboard?
John Paul, AAA Northeast's Car Doctor, answers a question from a reader trying to eliminate a bad odor inside an SUV.
Q. What is a reasonable price to pay for a mechanic to take out the dashboard on my 2006 Ford Escape to clean out the heater box and get rid of a mouse smell when the heat is turned on? How many hours would you estimate this to take?
A. Depending how far the shop needs to go to find the dead mouse, it takes between four to eight hours of labor. This car may or may not have a cabin air filter. Have you tried removing the cabin air filter and using a vacuum to try to clean the area? Even if your Escape doesn’t have a filter, cleaning the cowl area may help. Try using commercial cleaners such as Simple Green or even vinegar. Someone just told me about a product called Horsepower Bull Shot, that is supposed to clean and deodorize. Perhaps give it a try.
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Q. I have two Toyota Priuses, one is mine and one was my husband’s. I try to switch between them once a month to keep everything in good condition. I put my car in the garage on August 19th. Today I wanted to switch the cars but either the car battery was dead or the key fob battery was dead. My reason for writing is that when I opened the door I was shocked at what I saw. The steering wheel, driver’s seat, and surrounding areas were covered with some kind of dust. It looked like something had exploded inside the car. The front seats had what looked like water spots in the dust. What could have caused this? There was no evidence of an animal or rodent – nothing was chewed from what I could see – and there was no odor in the car. I am actually afraid to start the car until I know where this dust came from. If you can possibly offer an explanation for this situation?
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A. If the substance is not from the car, such as foam that is deteriorating or from a critter (which sounds unlikely based on your description), the only thing that comes to mind – and it’s just a guess – is a type of mildew. Development of powdery mildew is influenced by many environmental factors, including temperature, relative humidity, light, and air circulation. Because these optimum conditions usually occur in mid/late summer, your garage and car are basically a greenhouse which can promote growth. I would mix up some baking soda and water or vinegar, wear gloves and a mask, and start with a good cleaning. This powdery mildew is not like black mold. Once the car is clean and running, I would change the cabin air filter. You could also have a professional detailer come out and clean and sanitize the car.
Q. I have a 2007 Chevy Impala with, what I believe, is a ground problem. As I am driving, the radio’s reception goes from good to bad. I have watched some YouTube videos where the braided grounding strap between the engine and chassis is disintegrating. Can you suggest a good repair shop in the area that can fix this?
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A. Certainly, a general repair shop could find and change a simple ground strap. But I think a radio/alarm installer would be better. These auto electronics accessory shops are generally better at finding radio problems and improving the overall performance. All antennas rely on a body ground, so it could be the engine-to-body-to-battery ground, or depending on how the antenna is mounted, rust causing a poor ground. This is especially true on AM band. Replacing the antenna may be the answer. The best radio reception comes from a 31-inch one-piece stainless-steel mast.
Q. I have seen several stories about car dealer frauds. What safety measurements should consumers take to protect themselves from these dishonest practices?
A. Research the dealer’s ratings using the internet. Read Yelp, Better Business Bureau, Google, and Facebook reviews. And even take these with a grain of salt. There are many fake reviews. Get everything in writing and read the contract. Too often buyers are surprised by things like balloon payments or high interest loans. Never buy a car without a title (in a state where titles are required). Personally, I would not even put a deposit down on a car unless the title is ready. Ask to see the CarFax or other title record search such as NICB. Inspect the title to make sure the car you are buying is not a reconstructed total or recovered theft. If the car is from a private party, make sure the name on the title is the person selling the car. Keep in mind there is no three-day return policy. Have it inspected by a qualified garage technician before buying the car. Once you give the dealer money, you have lost your position of power. Finally, trust your gut. If the deal is too good to be true or something feels off, walk away.
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John Paul is AAA Northeast’s Car Doctor. He has over 40 years of experience in the automotive business and is an ASE-certified master technician. E-mail your Car Doctor question to [email protected]. Listen to the Car Doctor podcast at johnfpaul.podbean.com.
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