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Q. My car has the very annoying start-stop feature and I am concerned how it will shorten the life of the starter and battery. Should I be?
A. The battery in most cars with the stop-start feature is an AGM battery that is better suited to this feature. The starter is also specially designed to withstand the frequent starting. I recently saw a video of a Toyota technician and YouTuber who answered a similar question. She mentioned that on some Toyota products at a certain time, the check engine light will come on and set a code for the starter replacement. This happens after 384,000 starting cycles. This to me looks like about 20-22 starts per day for 50 years. Based on this number, the starting system sounds pretty robust.
Q. I have a 2019 Jeep Cherokee with 39,000 miles. A few months back my service stability control light came on, I went to my local mechanic, and he scanned the computer and said I needed an update that only the dealership can perform. I took my car to the dealership and when they called me later that day it was diagnosed that the rack and pinion steering system had to be replaced at a cost of $3,700. The car drove perfectly with no issues. Any thoughts on this?
A. The system uses information from the steering angle sensor at the top of the column as well as wheel sensors, so I am not sure why the entire rack and pinion steering would need replacement. The issue can be mechanical or electrical and I would like to see more testing to confirm this expensive diagnosis. Regarding the dealer being the only one that can update the software, today independent shops can “reflash” computers providing they have the correct tools and access to the software.
Q. I have a 2020 Ford Edge ST with the 2.7-liter engine. The vehicle has 38,500 miles. I purchased an extended warranty for this vehicle as it has extensive electronics. The check engine light came on and I brought it to my mechanic. He came up with numerous codes PO496 (EVAP) and U3003-16, U3003-17, and U0452-86 (ABS system). I was told by the warranty company that the EVAP system is not covered, which I do not understand. Any ideas?
A. The purge valve (EVAP code) would have been covered by the 3/36,000 emissions warranty which has now expired. Perhaps the extended warranty does not cover emissions control parts? As for the other codes, those typically indicate an issue with the CAN Bus wiring due to low voltage. The issue can be as simple as a faulty battery.
Q. While Toyota makes decent cars, their service sometimes leaves a lot to be desired. I had a Corolla that I took in for brakes, which had a bearing failure after about a month. Of course they took no responsibility for it. On the work order it said clean and repack bearings. Another time when I took it for a state inspection, the service rep told me I needed a new battery when I had replaced the battery six months earlier. Why does this happen?
A. The bearings could have certainly been overtightened by an inexperienced mechanic that was not familiar with tapered roller bearing. After just one month, it seems to me the dealer should have taken responsibility for their work. Regarding the battery, quite often I see new batteries condemned just because they are not the factory battery, even though the battery meets or exceeds the original specifications and may have been made in the same factory.
Q. My 2011 Volkswagen Jetta’s oil light comes on three times each morning, then the car is fine all day. What is wrong?
A. The most common issue is a faulty oil pressure sensor or perhaps sludge in the oil from extended oil changes and not using synthetic oil. The first place to start would be to use a mechanical oil pressure gauge to rule out any electrical issues with the gauge. If the oil pressure is less than 17 PSI of pressure at an idle, then the oil pump or even a worn engine bearing could be at fault.
Q. I read your articles each week with interest and find great information regarding car issues. My 2018 Nissan Rogue makes a sound whenever I turn the steering wheel. I have read that this is an issue with a gasket that is easily replaced. What do you know about this annoying noise?
A. The common issue is the rubber steering column lower seal/insulator. This part allows for a watertight seal for the steering shaft as it exits the cabin of the vehicle. The repair is quite straightforward, and any good repair shop should be able to make the repair.
John Paul is AAA Northeast’s Car Doctor. He has over 40 years of experience in the automotive business and is an ASE-certified master technician. E-mail your Car Doctor question to [email protected]. Listen to the Car Doctor podcast at johnfpaul.podbean.com.
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