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What’s causing my SUV to rock from side to side?
John Paul, AAA Northeast's Car Doctor, answers a question from a reader having issues with his normally smooth-riding vehicle.
Q. I have a 2018 Lincoln MKX Premiere with 70,000 miles. The car has always had a nice ride to it, but at about 65,000 miles I’ve started to notice the car has started to rock from side to side when going over some uneven surfaces. I have been driving for over 50 years and never felt anything like this. The car can rock so badly that the steering wheel starts to shake which makes things even worse. I have not brought it to the dealer yet because it is hard to explain, and I want to find a place on the road near the dealer so that they can road test it to see what I am talking about. The tires are properly inflated, and I do not see any leaking shocks or excessive bounce. I was wondering if this could be a computer control issue and if you have ever heard of anything like this.
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A. This is a pretty complicated system that takes height reading continuously at all four wheels. The only way to check for issues is with a Ford scan tool or equivalent. And I absolutely agree I would want to demonstrate to a technician the issue to prevent unnecessary repairs. As you pointed out it is unlikely it is a strut or spring, based on bouncing on the car and looking at ride height. Still, I would want to cover all the basics, looking for worn parts or even a possible tire issue. Once the car is mechanically verified, then I would be looking at the computer and sensors.
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Q. I am writing to you because my daughter’s car has experienced damage about three or four times in the last few years from rats crawling into the underside of the car to chew its wires (which apparently are now made of soy). She has tried many measures including peppermint oil, camphor, and mothballs, but still has to get the car repaired due to the rats. I have heard this is a very common issue especially in the city. Do you know if there are any cars on the market today that do not use soy wires and do you know of any potential solutions to this issue?
A. Soy is not the problem (it is not food quality), it is the rat population. Now non-soy wiring may not taste good, but the damage still happens and has happened for decades. Rats and mice chew on things because their teeth are always growing, and a warm engine compartment provides a nice home. As for cars without soy components, I do not believe there are any. Honda in the past has recommended a wire tape that is impregnated with capsicum-hot pepper that is supposed to prevent damage, perhaps worth a try.
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Q. I have a 2007 Chevy Impala and I am getting code P0751 “Solenoid ‘A’ open”. I have added the Lucus Transmission fluid that says that it will help unstick the solenoid. It did seem to work but I still have the code. Assuming that there is room in the transmission for another bottle of the Lucus; do I add a second bottle, or do I bite the bullet and have my mechanic replace both the A and B solenoids?
A. Based on the code and your description I would say the solenoid is sticking or has an open winding. As for adding more additives, “if a little is good, more must be better” would not apply here. I would test/replace the solenoids. The side cover and pan will need to come off, so there is some labor involved.
Q. Can a key-fob really be hacked? I saw something on YouTube, and it seems as if someone with a hacker tool that looks like a child’s toy can hack a key-fob.
A. New cars use rolling codes. When you unlock the car, the code changes. So even if the hacker copied the code, it would not work after the car was started. Older cars with alarm remotes would be possible, but not newer cars.
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Q. Lately we have been having problems with the push-button start on our 2015 Honda CR-V. When trying to start the car I push down the brake and press the start button, but it does not start. All the dashboard lights come on, but no start. I hit the start button again to shut everything down and try again. This can happen 2-3 times but sometimes it just starts like it should. Is it the switch, key-fob, or something else?
A. The first place to start is with a check of the battery and battery cable connections. A weak battery or poor connections could be the problem. A weak key-fob battery will usually show a message on the instrument panel. Although not common, the push button switch itself could be an issue. With the average life of a battery at five years and your Honda now nine years old, you may be ready for your second or third battery.
John Paul is AAA Northeast’s Car Doctor. He has over 40 years of experience in the automotive business and is an ASE-certified master technician. E-mail your Car Doctor question to [email protected]. Listen to the Car Doctor podcast at johnfpaul.podbean.com.
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